An Irishwoman’s guide to Ireland’s most underrated county — mountains, poetry and world-class beaches

Sandy beaches, world-class surf and rip-roaring nightlife are all part of a visit to Sligo — and that’s before you get to the otherworldly landscapes that inspired one of Ireland’s greatest poets.

Yet while everyone raves about Cork, Kerry and Galway, it remains comparatively under the radar.

Perched on the Wild Atlantic Way, with wide open sea to the west and lush lakelands to the east, Sligo may be small, but it’s packed with stunning landscapes and things to do.

A long weekend is the perfect way to dip a toe into the hidden gem of Ireland’s west.

Here, our Irish Travel Editor Alice Murphy shares her insider’s guide to the best bits, and spoiler: most of them won’t cost you a penny.

Drive the Gleniff Horseshoe

Dive headfirst into Sligo’s rugged beauty at the Gleniff Horseshoe, a 10km track that loops around a glacial valley, about a 30-minute drive from Sligo Town.

Arguably one of the best things to do in the area, you can explore it by car (the drive takes 30 minutes) or on foot (a three-hour trail).

Entry is free, and your reward is spectacular views of the Dartry Mountains and Donegal Bay.

Overtourism hasn’t hit this corner of Ireland just yet, and the Horseshoe is practically deserted for most of the year.

Even at the height of summer, there are plenty of places to park. The best spot is at Gleniff Barytes Mill Site, where you’ll find a hidden waterfall and a meadow full of butterflies and horses.

The added beauty of the Horseshoe is that it’s only a short spin from some of the best places to visit in the region.

It’s hard to beat Benbulben Forest Walk, an easy 5km ramble around the base of Sligo’s tabletop mountain, and Glencar Waterfall, which tumbles 50ft into a fairy-like wood on the Sligo-Leitrim border. Both are free.

Swim in the wild Atlantic

With some 118 miles of Atlantic coastline, there are hundreds of spectacular wild swimming spots in Sligo. But if you ask me, three of the best are Rosses Point, Inishcrone, and Mullaghmore.

Rosses Point treats you to sweeping views of Benbulben and the option to try a session at the popular Hot Box Sauna on the pier.

Straddling the Sligo-Mayo border, Inishrone is often named among the most beautiful beaches in Ireland, and the picture-postcard town of Mullaghmore is dotted with coves you’ll have all to yourself.

The local favourite is Bishop’s Pool, a natural tidal lagoon sheltered by rocks. In summer, the average water temperature hovers around 16.6°C and feels surprisingly mild.

Dry off and stroll ten minutes into the town for a hearty feed at the Harbour Cafe; the cod burger and lobster roll are non-negotiable.

Finish the evening with sunset at Classiebawn Castle. On a clear day, the sky is tinged with a magnificent swirl of orange and pink.

Another fantastic way to spend an afternoon in Mullaghmore is by booking a whale watching tour (I recommend Kiwi Girl Mullaghmore).

Just off the coast and across the water in Donegal Bay, there are regular sightings of humpback whales, minke whales and even the occasional orca.

Have a pint at Furey’s

Compact but quaint, Sligo Town is a jumble of pubs and shops and a good place to base yourself for a weekend in the county.

On Bridge Street near the banks of the Garavogue River is Furey’s, a traditional pub that serves creamy Guinness and excellent trad sessions.

If you’re lucky, you might even catch a rising star on the cusp of their big break. Irish folk trio Amble played here in late 2023, and today they’re selling out major venues around the world.

Sligo Town has an up-and-coming food scene, with a solid mix of traditional and contemporary options.

The best meals can be found at Walker 1781 (good seafood and wood-fired pizzas) and Eala Bhán, a fine dining restaurant that means White Swan in the Irish language.

Watch a sheepdog at work

Around 15 minutes outside Sligo Town, Martin Feeley hosts one of the quirkiest activities on the island: sheepdogs in action at his ancestral family farm.

It all started in 2014, when a Dutch tour guide asked the local tourist office if there was anywhere he could take a group to see the dogs at work.

A neighbour who was working there at the time thought of Martin, a farmer who has trained champion sheepdogs for decades.

Over the past 12 years, Atlantic Sheepdogs has blossomed into an award-winning tourist destination (Americans, in particular, can’t get enough).

It’s affordable – a one-hour demo costs €15 for adults, €5 for children under 16 – and boasts the rare prestige of exclusively five-star reviews.

Surf at Strandhill

Strandhill is widely considered the best surf spot in Ireland.

You’ve probably seen Instagram videos of surfers riding monster waves as tall as buildings. Many of those clips were filmed right here.

Grab a board and take a lesson with Strandhill Surf School, or, if you’re more comfortable on dry land, park on the seafront and tuck into a pizza or burrito from one of the food trucks.

There’s also a range of hiking trails nearby, including a few across the mythic hill of Knocknarea.

Legend has it that the fierce warrior Queen Maeve is buried at the summit, spear in hand.

In more recent years, the striking limestone cliffs served as inspiration for WB Yeats, who is widely considered one of the greatest poets of the 20th century.

Sligo’s unique terrain inspired him so much that the north of the county is now known as Yeats Country.