When you think of a vineyard, you might imagine warm, sunny weather, rows of lush green vines stretching across hills and well-heeled sommeliers waxing lyrical about obscure variations of grape.
I never imagined my first visit to a vineyard would be on an overcast weekend in rural Gloucestershire, but I wouldn’t have changed a thing.
England’s largest and oldest vineyard, Three Choirs Vineyard, was exactly the escape I needed to unplug from a chaotic world.
Coming from the East Coast of the United States, I grew up passing billboards for our local vineyards, but never explored them.
My knowledge of wine extended to the price of a bottle of Barefoot Sauvignon Blanc when I was in college ($6, by the way).
So when an opportunity to learn about wine – and English wine, at that – came along, I jumped at the chance to broaden my horizons past buy-one-get-one-free grocery store deals.
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After making the two-hour journey from London, by train and by bus, I signed up for the guided wine tour (£48pp), booked dinner at the restaurant and grabbed the keys to the lodge I’d call home for the night.
The exotic vineyards I had seen friends visit in Spain and France looked very different from the one I was walking through.
Dry, sun-soaked soil was replaced with lush greenery and a few fallen leaves, but the biggest difference? The lack of crowds.
In my friends’ Instagram photos, it was clear they had been waiting to take the money shot in front of the vines, with lines behind them waiting to do the same.
In Three Choirs, it was quiet. On the five-minute walk to my accommodation from the main building, I saw and heard no one.
My cabin, with wide windows that captured views of the rolling hills, provided a secluded perch to watch rabbits hopping in the distance.
A southern girl at heart, the wrap-around porch bagged instant brownie points.
How to get to Three Choirs Vineyeard – prices and time
From London, our reporter took the train from Paddington to Gloucester Station, which took just under two hours and cost around £25 (booked in advance with a railcard).
From there, she took the 32 bus towards Newent for around 30 minutes (£2) before switching to the 232 bus (£3) towards Ledbury for five minutes, which stops right outside the vineyard entrance.
Back at the main building, we bedded down for an afternoon tasting with resident winemaker, Martin.
The tour included a walk around the warehouse and a lesson on how each wine was created. The first vines were planted in 1973.
Martin’s father-in-law was one of the first to plant the vines in 1973, and helped the vineyard grow into what it is today: a sprawling estate of various grape varieties, hand-harvested each year.
The guided tour included a walk around the winery, where large stainless-steel tanks towered over us as we walked along.
We learned more about how each wine is made – reds, whites, rosé and orange, a staple in trendy East London wine bars. No, it’s not made with actual oranges (it’s something to do with the grape skin).
Orange wine is made by fermenting the white grapes with skins and seeds, the same way as red wine is made, which lets the wine get its gorgeous amber shade.
We tried two sparkling wines, two white wines, two red wines, and two dessert wines. For a first-time visitor to a vineyard, Martin’s expertise and food pairing suggestions with each tipple made for a delightful afternoon (who knew Stilton and dessert wine went so well together).
Martin’s detailed explanation of each wine, its history and flavour notes helped even the most novice wine drinker truly appreciate the drink for what it was.
The only disappointment of the tasting was that there wasn’t more Stilton offered – English cheese pairs incredibly well with natural English wine.
Our reporter's favourite wines from the vineyard
Though our small group in the tour tried quite a few wines, three in particular stood out to this novice.
First was the 2022 Amber [£28], an orange variety released as a limited batch.
The main notes were orange, with a bit of subtle lychee and cinnamon. It went down smoothly, and for ___ a bottle, it’s well worth the splurge.
I’m not much of a red wine person, unless it’s around Christmas or with a good steak.
The 2023 Pinot Noir Precoce [£19.99] was a welcome surprise: incredibly smooth, and didn’t leave me with that ‘red wine’ coating in my mouth.
With notes of red berries, allspice, black pepper, and vanilla, it was a hit with me.
Saving the best for last, the 2023 Bacchus [£16] was by far my favourite. I love a crisp white wine, and the notes of lime in this made for a very refreshing drink. Ironically, it’s also the cheapest of my three favourite wines tasted, meaning I had to buy a bottle to take home.
After the sun set, I beelined for the brasserie. The details, down to the wine glass chandeliers, were carefully thought out and classy.
The restaurant was quiet, the service fast, and the food beautifully plated. I ordered a glass of the Bacchus wine, a dry white with peach and lime notes (and by far my favourite of all the tipples I tried).
The restaurant serves tapas-style plates, which were perfect, given I was on a solo trip. The roasted salmon with white wine sauce, mushrooms, spinach and orzo was light but flavourful.
Paired with warmed fresh figs, covered in melted Stilton and honey, I was ready for a nap afterwards. But what would a trip to a winery be without a bit of dessert?
The cheese platter was a sight to behold. For £22, I had four cheeses from across England, ranging from smoked Cornish cheese to a softer one, wrapped in dry nettles.
The walk back to my lodge after dinner was silent, interrupted only by the sound of birds splashing in the ponds down the pathway. I could smell rain in the air.
Retiring to my room, I took full advantage of the bathtub and put on one of my favourite playlists.
No signal has its benefits. I sat on the porch, looking out at the vines, oblivious to the world and the notifications that normally plague my phone for the rest of the evening.
Before heading back to London, I enjoyed breakfast in the brasserie, a poached egg and avocado on toast with a cafetière of coffee.
I expected a bit of snobbery from an experienced sommelier hosting a wine tour in England’s oldest winery, but at Three Choirs I found the opposite to be true.
Here, wine is for everyone, and the love winemakers have for their craft is clear in each sip. The individual experience and lack of crowds make for a wonderful visit, guaranteed.
Sarah Hooper was a guest of Three Choirs Vineyard, hosted by Lily Pad PR.