In the latest Travel Hot Take, Maria Astardjieva reveals why you should skip Amsterdam and head to the Netherlands’ second city instead.
Visiting Amsterdam for the first time on a cold February weekend right after Covid, I was ready for a quintessential Dutch adventure: Van Gogh, coffee shops, and canals, the whole lot.
But besides a lovely boat tour of the city’s labyrinthine canals, I must admit that I was quite disappointed.
There was a hairy spin on a rental bike (locals can spot a tourist on wheels from miles away, and they, rather understandably, do not have time for us); the mildly disturbing Red Light district; the swarms of stag-doers and legal high chasers.
And with no intention of dabbling, I counted my losses, snapped a few pics and went back to my hotel.
Don’t get me wrong. I can see its charm, and with the right group of people, Amsterdam is a great choice for a memorable weekend — it just wasn’t for me.
Other Dutch cities, though, are different.
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In search of my fix of stroopwafels and windmills, I took a pleasant 35-minute train to Rotterdam Centraal — a sprawling steel structure in the heart of the Netherlands’ second city.
That’s when my Dutch adventure really began.
Architectural melting pot
Rotterdam feels young in every sense of the word.
Completely flattened during World War II, the city was rebuilt from scratch in the 50s and 60s.
This presented an opportunity for a fresh start. Often described as Amsterdam’s ‘younger sister’, its tumultuous history has given it a spirit of resilience and an appetite for reinvention.
Its skyline is a jumbled mixture of shapes and textures. Nothing feels uniform, and yet everything fits perfectly into a colourful architectural tapestry.
From the instantly recognisable Cube Houses by Piet Blom and the proud 802m-tall Erasmus Bridge by Ben van Berkel, to the mirror-wrapped depot of Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, the streets of Rotterdam are more like an open-air art gallery.
The city is home to several world-renowned universities, which attract young people from all over the world.
It’s also affordable — food and accommodation are significantly cheaper than in Amsterdam.
My brother, who is one of thousands of students in the city, tells me that its nightlife rivals Berlin.
24 hours in Amsterdam: what to see and where to eat
1. Markthal
A giant food hall with a psychedelic ceiling mural the size of a football pitch. Great for photography, better for snacking.
2. Cube Houses (Kubuswoningen)
Rotterdam’s architectural icon. For €3 you can enter the Kijk-Kubus (“show cube”) and finally understand how people live diagonally..
3. Erasmus Bridge
The city’s most famous bridge – sleek, futuristic, and the perfect backdrop for sunset photos.
4. Depot Boijmans Van Beuningen
The world’s first publicly accessible art storage facility. A mirrored bowl-shaped building that looks like an alien dropped it there.
5. Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen (when reopened)
One of the Netherlands’ most prestigious art collections. If it isn’t open during your visit, the Depot still gives you a taste.
6. Witte de Withstraat
Rotterdam’s coolest street – indie bars, art galleries, concept stores, nightlife, students everywhere.
7. Euromast
A 185m tower with a glass elevator that gives you panoramic views across the city. You can even abseil down it in summer.
You gouda try it
A twenty-minute journey from Rotterdam Centraal is a true hidden gem.
Reminiscent of a mini Amsterdam, Gouda delights with its picturesque houses and narrow canals. But its crown jewel is in its name.
It’s a paradise for cheese lovers like me (I’m lactose intolerant, but never mind that).
Gouda (or just cheese, as they call it there) is the milder, creamier sister of the classic English cheddar.
If you’re lucky enough to visit the town on a market day – usually Saturdays – you will be welcomed by dozens of stalls of locally produced cheese in a variety of sizes and flavours.
We tried the classic gouda, as well as a whole lot of creative herb and spice infusions. Black truffle, red chilli, and thyme and honey were outstanding. My stomach was in bits and it was totally worth it.
Getting there
Train (Eurostar): Direct trains from London St Pancras to Rotterdam Centraal take around 3h 15m-3h 30m. Tickets start from £51 one-way when booked in advance, but look out for flash sales to bag tickets that cost as little as £35.
Plane: Budget airline Transavia just launched flights from London Stansted Airport to Rotterdam The Hague, starting from £35 one way. Alternatively, fly out to Amsterdam, Eindhoven or Brussels – all affordable when booked in advance, and under an hour away from Rotterdam by train.
Where to stay
citizenM Rotterdam: Stylish, modern and perfectly located by the Old Harbour. Rooms from £85-£120.
nhow Rotterdam: A design hotel in the iconic De Rotterdam building with skyline views over the Erasmus Bridge. Rooms from £95-£150.
The James Hotel: Central, calm, and ideal for budget-conscious travellers. Rooms from £70-£110.
SS Rotterdam: A former ocean liner turned quirky hotel. Perfect for a one-of-a-kind stay. Rooms from £90-£140.
Best areas
- Oude Haven for cafés, bars and a lively but not overwhelming atmosphere
- City Centre (near Lijnbaan & Markthal) for shopping, food and easy transport
- Kop van Zuid for architecture, skyline views, and waterfront strolls