I vowed never to return to Morocco’s oldest city — here’s why I’ve changed my mind

It was with my head placed firmly in the toilet bowl that I made a solemn vow: ‘I’m never coming back here again’.

I had descended into the ninth circle of hell — otherwise known as Moroccan food poisoning.

From the moment I stepped off the plane in Fez, I had a bad feeling. The welcome wasn’t ideal: the weather was about as terrible as it had been in the UK.

‘The worst rainfall in 40 years,’ was a phrase that kept getting banded around. Excellent.

It was the start of what would be a challenging trip, but now that my suitcase is unpacked (and my digestive system has returned to factory settings) I’m starting to wonder if I was the problem.

A few different decisions, and my trip to Fez could have been transformed.

The truth is, there are plenty of reasons to visit this one-of-a-kind place. More than just the name of the tasseled cap, Fez is Morocco’s oldest city. Founded in 808AD, in its heyday it attracted creatives, philosophers and scholars, becoming the country’s capital on and off for roughly 800 years. The world’s first university can also be found here, built in 859AD by a woman, Fatima al-Fihri.

The streets are a kaleidoscope of colourful tiled mosaics, and the people who live and work here are fiercely proud of their heritage — welcoming tourists with open arms.

But sadly for me, a series of unfortunate events conspired to put a dampener on my trip. So, here are my dos and don’ts for a holiday to Morocco’s second city — it might just be your trip of a lifetime.

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Do go to the Medina

Fez is split up into three distinct areas: Fez el-Bali (also known as the Medina), Fez el-Jdid (the ‘new’ Fez — still a few hundred years old and home to the Jewish Quarter) and Ville Nouvelle (the most modern, built by French colonisers in the early 1900s).

Of this trio, the Medina — a labyrinth made up of 9,000 streets (squashed into an area of two Hyde Parks), and home to 150,000 residents — is surely the beating heart of the city.

Brightly coloured ceramics, shoes and rugs spill out of shops. The smell of extra-strength Moroccan coffee is enough to give you a buzz without taking a single sip (I got mine from Lagali), and market stalls sell local produce: mountains of figs, jar upon jar of olives, and piles of homemade flat bread, fresh from the Medina’s communal ovens. Cats sit outside the butcher’s stalls, eyeing up the live chickens, who are blissfully unaware of their grizzly fate.

There’s no traffic here, as the UNESCO-listed site is entirely pedestrianised, although you might have to step aside for the odd donkey and cart.

It’s wonderfully chaotic — and a little overwhelming. To make the most of your time in the Medina (and to make sure you don’t get lost) book onto a walking tour.

I joined the Fes: Museum, Al Attarine Madrasa & Tannery and Medina Tour, available through Get Your Guide, which for a three and a half hour tour was a bargain at jut £10 per person.

Lead by an expert guide, the tour also ticked off sites such as the Nejjarine Fountain, the Chouara Tannery, and the Bou Inania Madrasa (a type of university).

We also stopped for lunch at the Palais Mnebhi, a 20th century palace and where the Treaty of Fez was signed. Today, it’s a Moroccan restaurant was was frequented by none other than Madonna, who visited last year.

For something more low-key, head to Fez Cafe, a plant-filled terrace in the middle of the Medina, offering up local cuisine.

Do enjoy traditional cuisine with a cooking class

The absolute highlight of my trip to Fez was a cooking class, hosted by married couple Jessica and Mohamed, who welcomed us into their home, Dar Sunrise, within the Medina.

Originally from Hong Kong, Jessica met her husband while on holiday in Morocco 10 years ago. He was working in the Riad she stayed in and, as Jessica told me, ‘it was love at first sight.’

Now, as far as she knows, she’s the only Hong Kong ex-pat in Fez, where she lives with Mohamed, his family, and their two-year-old daughter.

The class starts with our head chef, Yassin, asking us what we want to cook, while we’re treated to a delicious array of Moroccan biscuits. Do not pass up the ghriba — a peanut shortbread.

Next, it’s a trip to the market with Mohamed to buy ingredients. Whatever you might want to eat, goes into the basket.

Then, it’s back to the kitchen and the cooking begins. Yassin and his sister do a good job at making us feel like we’re being useful — we chop, slice, season and sauté — but their skills are impressive, even if they try desperately not to show them off.

The vibes in this small kitchen were impeccable. Moroccan music plays as delicious smells came from tagines and pots boiling on the stove. At one point, there’s an impromptu dance break, as Yassin plays the garagab (sort of iron castanets), and let’s us try — and fail — to give them a go too.

And then, finally, the feast is ready. There was vegetable tagine, tagine kafta (tagine with meatballs), lamb with fried eggplant… the list goes on.

The star of the show was undoubtedly the giant pastilla, a traditional savoury-sweet pie made with shredded chicken, spices and almonds. You have to try one while you’re in Fez.

The hygiene here was of professional standard (I ate here after I got sick) but if you’re worried about food poisoning, as I was, avoid raw fruit and vegetables, ice in your drinks, and undercooked eggs. The later of which turned out to be my big mistake.

To book the Fes Souk Tour & Traditional Home Cooking Class for £49 per person visit Get Your Guide.

Do go in the spring

When I visited Fez in early February, I had hoped for some winter sun. However, after seven years of drought, the city has welcomed unprecedented winter rain — and it’s a trend that climate change experts predict could continue.

But Fez isn’t built for wet or cold weather. Much of the tourist activities are based outside, meanwhile homes are designed to keep people cool. The staff at my Riad were valiantly drying the tiled floors, to ensure the safety of their guests.

There’s also not much in the way of heating or insulation — my hotel mattress had not one but two electric blankets on it.

Whether it was lying in a hotel bed or eating at a restaurant, I just wasn’t warm enough (and yes, I’d packed my big coat) at any point.

Instead, I’ll be returning in spring, where average temperatures sit at a balmy 25Cs.

Do be prepared for a conservative city

Fez is widely regarded as more conservative the other Moroccan cities. As a result, there are a few things to be aware of when visiting.

While alcohol is not illegal — and is available in more upscale hotels and in the Ville Nouvelle — you won’t find it widely served.

You’ll also likely notice that men and women don’t appear to mix all that much. It was after a morning in the Medina that I realised I’d seen men hanging around and chatting, but the same couldn’t be said for women.

Since returning home, I’ve also been asked about the level of cat-calling in Fez. It wasn’t something I experienced — but I dressed modestly, and was accompanied by a male guide at almost all times. On my flight home, I spoke to a father who said he’d been shocked by the level of harassment his 23-year-old daughter received.

None of these points are necessarily reason not to visit Fez, but it’s worth knowing, and deciding whether you’re comfortable with this, before booking a flight.

Don’t just stay in the city — go further afield

The city can be overstimulating, and if I go back, I’ll take a break and explore further afield.

Perhaps the most popular day trip is to Meknes, often described as a more laid-back alternative to Fez.

You’ll find a Medina here too, as well as a city gate, Bab Mansour, much bigger than the one in Fez. In fact, an inscription on it reads ‘I am the most beautiful gate in Morocco’.

This trip is also often combined with a visit to Volubilis, an ancient city that was abandoned by the Romans around 300AD. UNESCO listed, it’s the best-preserved archaeological site in Morocco.

Another popular excursion is to Chefchaouen, Morocco’s famous ‘Blue City’. However, be warned, travel time is around four hours each way.

Nestled in the Rif Mountains, this artsy village is painted blue, a tradition which was believed to be started by Jewish refugees after WWII.

Today, it means that tourists head to Chefchaouen to wander among it’s azure streets.

Hikers can also walk out of the village and into the mountains, or take a 30 to 45 minute trip by car to the beautiful Akchour, famed for it’s waterfalls.

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