Tenerife has become synonymous with fly-and-flop holidays and cheap winter getaways.
Zero judgement here: we’ve always got time for a no-frills escape.
For some though, it means that the largest of the Canary Islands has been disregarded, set aside as a destination for all-inclusive cocktails, full English breakfast, karaoke, and nothing more.
But from quiet beaches to authentic, family-run restaurants, there’s a lot more to this volcanic island than you might think.
Metro spoke to local experts, who shared their favourite under-the-radar spots for some Tenerife winter sun — without the crowds.
It might just make you reconsider what you think you know about this popular Brits abroad destination.
Sign up to The Getaway newsletter
Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here.
For beaches: Bajamar
Born and raised in Tenerife, Cristina Muñoz Vallejo, who now works at a media agency in London, recommends the coastal town of Bajamar for its beautiful and unspoiled beaches.
Nestled in the northeast of the island, Bajamar sits at the bottom of the Valley of Tegueste, where, as well as beaches, you’ll find incredible hiking trails and vineyards.
‘It’s probably one of the least touristy places on the island,’ Cristina says, but one of the most popular among residents throughout the year.
With a 200-metre-long coastline of sandy beach and cobalt waters, Bajamar also boasts natural pools.
The latter — which are a complex of lagoons filled with seawater — are famous among the locals, Cristina explains.
‘Many own a second home or apartment in the area,’ she says, adding that Tinerfeños flock there in the summer when temperatures reach 29°C.
‘Bajamar is also known for its surfing community as it has some of the biggest waves on the island,’ Cristina adds.
There are plenty of waterside cafés and seafood restaurants to enjoy, too.
While Cristina says that most restaurants here are ‘authentic and mostly visited by locals,’ her favourite spot is La Cofradía de Bajamar, a humble beachfront joint with views of the Atlantic Ocean.
‘My go-to meal is always sardinas fritas’ — or fried sardines to us — she says.
But honestly, one look at the restaurant’s Instagram and we’re sold: its grid is littered with everything from fresh oysters to calamari to octopus.
With Bajamar ticked off, Cristina also recommends heading to Cala de las Tortugas in El Puertito, on the southwest of the island.
This small cove is accessed via rocky paths (you’re unlikely to spot any signposts), and is known for its rugged surroundings.
‘This area is currently protected, and a natural bay for snorkelling,’ Cristina says. ‘You can feel its remoteness.’
Cristina adds that Tenerife’s best beaches or coves are quite hard to get to, so having a car is essential.
For mountain life: Taganana
Up in the mountains of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, you’ll find Taganana, a quintessentially Canarian village in the heart of the Anaga Rural Park.
Worlds away from the touristy hotpots of Los Cristianos and Costa Adeje, this small spot is surrounded by lush green mountains and panoramic ocean views.
Here, simple stone homes are built into steep hillsides and painted in vibrant colours.
Though the village is small, it’s worth strolling through the narrow streets to get a feel of authentic Canarian life.
Be sure to check out the church of Our Lady of the Snows, a Catholic temple with roots dating back to the 16th century — one of the oldest on the island.
From original 16th-century flamenco artwork to its distinctive red tower, the church is a key part of the village’s traditional landscape.
Then, head into the park for a hike. One of the most popular is the circular 14 km trail from the quiet village of Afur, which encompasses Taganana.
Not for the faint-hearted, the route can take around seven hours. But the rugged cliffs, verdant forests, and sparkling ocean scenes make the effort well worth it.
Other highlights from the trail include passing Barranco de Afur, a deep ravine with cave houses, and Playa de Tamadite, a remote volcanic beach.
As you take in the views, you’ll discover some history, too. In Afur, there’s an archaeological site called Stone of the Guanches — an engraved stone stele made from volcanic rock.
The site is linked to the Guanche mummification practices, an ancient way of preserving a dead body. Dating back as early as the 6th century BC, it was a 15-day process reserved for high-status individuals and involved using herbs, lard, and sun-drying.
For food: Anywhere you can find a Guachinche
‘The best — and insanely affordable — food you’re going to get is at a Guachinche,’ says Cristina, referring to the traditional family-run establishments native to the Canaries, particularly Tenerife.
Cristina says that Guachinches never feature in travel guides as their appearance can put locals off. They’re often located in a garage or terrace off someone’s house, and most are known by word of mouth.
However, Cristina says that non-locals should look out for signs on the road that lead up to them, and many can be found on Google Maps.
Disclaimer: She warns that some of the drives will take you down or up very steep roads, so you’ll definitely need a car, and might have to park in gravel or dirt.
That’s all part of the fun, we say.
‘These establishments serve solely Canarian food. Some stick to incredibly simple and home-made styles, others will put a gourmet twist on their dishes, but they are the best places to get authentic food,’ says Cristina.
Expect popular dishes like papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) with mojo sauces, carne fiesta (fried meat), ropa vieja (shredded meat stew), and queso asado (grilled cheese).
If you’re partial to a tipple, a Guachinche will always serve wine from the owner’s land, too.
According to Cristina, the best municipalities for Guachinches are La Victoria de Acentejo, La Matanza de Acentejo, and Santa Ursula.
Some of her favourites include Casa Basilio (La Matanza), el Tinglado (Santa Ursula), and La Huerta de Adan y Eva (La Victoria).
For culture: La Orotava
In the Canary Islands, Cristina says that witnessing, or even better, immersing yourself in a romerías, is as culturally Canarian as you can get.
Romerías are religious pilgrimages and celebrations held in every municipality, usually between the months of April and July.
‘They are very joyful parades, and it’s a glimpse at the rich cultural heritage and traditions that continue to live on across not just Tenerife, but all of the eight Canary Islands,’ she says.
Joanne Robinson, who works in sales, has been living in Tenerife for 20 years. She says the best celebration, loved by locals, is San Benito, which celebrates the agricultural traditions of Tenerife.
‘It is the representative romería of the Canary Islands, held annually on the second Sunday of July,’ explains Joanne.
Cristina agrees. ‘Locals dress in regional folkloric dresses, parades are held with Ox-pulled carts, and parties are hosted by each town with Canarian food, wine, and music,’ she says.
Joanne’s top tip is to arrive early, as you get to see the wagons and folk groups assemble. She also suggests checking local transport and parking, as the town fills up quickly.
Metro's Canary Island content
Looking for your next Canary Island getaway? As well as Tenerife, why not take yourself on an island-hopping adventure to these other hotspots:
• The beautiful ‘Venice of the Canary Islands’ is 23°C in November with £45 flights
• The hottest Canary Island in November revealed with 25°C heat and £35 flights
• ‘Secret’ Canary Island lesser-known than Lanzarote gets new direct UK flights
• Spanish ‘mini Maldives’ gets brand new TUI flight from UK airport
Do you have a story to share?
Get in touch by emailing MetroLifestyleTeam@Metro.co.uk.