Perched on the Adriatic coast in Italy’s Emilia Romagna region, Rimini is where Italians spend their holidays.
The seaside town’s nine-mile stretch of golden sand has been a magnet for domestic travellers for decades.
More recently, however, Rimini has evolved beyond its reputation as a boisterous, bordering on kitsch, beachside resort.
Its rich culture, with fascinating architecture, mouthwatering cuisine, and mind-blowing archaeological discoveries, is now finally being appreciated by international visitors.
I fell in love with the lesser-known Rimini that exists beyond the parasols and sun loungers, and with affordable direct flights from the UK, there are many good reasons to make it your next getaway.
Getting to grips with Rimini
With three days to myself, I spend my first morning exploring the historic centre, or centro storico, with its pockets of history dating back to 268BC when Rimini was founded by the Romans.
Today, tokens of those very early years remain dotted around the town.
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The Arch of Augustus, for instance, was once the gateway into Rimini – marking the end of the Rome-Rimini road. The beautiful Ponte Di Tiberio, remarkably still intact despite being bombed during WWII, is a 2,000-year-old limestone bridge that leads you from the old town into the pastel-coloured fisherman’s hamlet of Borgo Santo Giuliano (more on this later).
At Plaza Tre Martiri, the 13th-century Malatesta Temple pays tribute to the town’s transformation from the Gothic era to the Renaissance period. A distinguished marble doorway leads into the cathedral, where frescos, statues dedicated to patron saints, and even a canvas painting, span the walls.
Strolling across to the other side of Ponte Di Tiberio, I stop for my first cappuccino of the day at local favourite, Bar Pasticceria Vecchi. It’s the ideal spot to sit and watch the world go by while fueling up on buttery pastries.
Around the corner, the Friday farmer’s market is thriving; the stalls laden with creamy cheeses and plump, juicy strawberries are by far the busiest.
‘I feel blessed to be able to come here in the morning and buy healthy ingredients. It’s a good way to start the day,’ says local resident Claudia Valentina, as we both pick up a punnet.
Getting lost in the backstreets
Following a delicious piadina lunch at NudeCrud – Rimini is famous for its flatbread stuffed with local ingredients such as soft cheese and prosciutto – I wander the cobbled backstreets of Borgo Santo Giuliano, the town’s most wonderfully flamboyant neighbourhood.
Colourful cottages line the roads, accented with bursts of fuchsia bougainvillea and sweetly scented jasmine bushes. Some houses display murals of fisher-families of the past, a dedication to the generations that have come before.
What strikes me most, though, are the many depictions of Rimini’s homegrown superstar, Federico Fellini.
The Italian film director, known for his cult classics such as 81/2 and La Strada, was born here in 1920. He went on to be nominated for 12 Academy Awards and even has his own Fellini Museum around the corner at Castel Sismondo.
Star quality extends to the neighbourhood’s food. Augusta’s fish risotto ‘done the Rimini way’ is a favourite, I’m told, while the succulent pasta parcels filled ragu at Osterio io e Simone is also a top choice.
Around the vecchia pescheria, or old fish market, students gather to sample the birrerias and cocktailerias that are nestled into the old stone arches.
I head back to the coast and settle in for a seafood platter of battered fish, prawns and squid and a glass of Sangiovese at Rock Island. The spruced up shed-restaurant, with its own DJ – perched on the end of the pier overlooking the Adriatic – the perfect spot to watch the sun go down.
On the Via Marecchiese
A gear change for day two, and I venture an hour southwest of Rimini by car to the slopes of the Pennabilli township, where Michelin-starred bistro Il Pistarino is tucked away in a manicured private garden.
Fortunately, I’ve timed my visit with truffle season. I’m delighted that my entrée, composed of sliced asparagus, carrot and gratin, is topped generously with black truffle shavings – the latter sourced from the nearby hilltop village of Sant’Agata Feltria.
‘My philosophy has been centered on offering a cuisine that is thoughtful, contemporary, yet deeply rooted in the local territory,’ restaurateur Riccardo Agostini explains. ‘Vegetables, fruits, berries, flowers – whatever nature offers, I let it lead [my dishes]. I also work closely with trusted local artisans who share these values.’
Due to the Mediterranean climate, there are plenty of seasonal ingredients here, including some prize-winning grapes.
On the way back, I pop into the Podere dell’Angelo winery, where Giacomo Bianchi and his sister Giulia invite visitors to taste their signature Rebola and Sangiovese, which arrive alongside a plate of homemade cheese, salami and chorizo, a staple of the Podere dell’Angelo cellar door experience.
According to Giacomo, the success of some of their top wines, like the Giulietta rebola, is down to the flavours instilled from the salty sea air and chalky soil.
A final and relaxing day is spent cycling along the promenade that runs parallel to the Rimini coastline.
With a cappuccino from waterside cafe, Dalla Jole, in hand – and later, a piadina stuffed with pecorino cheese and salami from family-owned Lella al Mare for lunch, I end my time in Rimini well-fed, warm and doing as the locals do.
I suggest that sooner rather than later, you do, too.
How to get to Rimini from the UK
Flights to Bologna with EasyJet and British Airways operate through the autumn and winter season, with direct flights to Rimini resuming from April. Prices start from £300 return.
Metro found standard rooms in a beachfront four-star hotel from £100 per night in November.