I spent 12 days on a Nile River cruise with an Egyptologist — it was a huge surprise

‘What happens on this tour here, stays here,’ booms our group’s Egyptologist, her words bouncing around the ancient ruins of Dendera Temple.

Well, just for once, Suzanne is wrong. Because this holiday is living history, and ancient sites, such as the Valley of the Kings and the legends of the Pharaohs – combined with the beauty of sailing majestically down the Nile – is something I’ll happily retell for years to come.

It’s our first-ever cruise, and with Death On The Nile as our favourite film, a cruise down the iconic river to discover ancient Egypt with our very own Egyptologist – multitasker Suzanne, who doubles as mother, friend, entertainer and educator – ticks every box.

But more on the ship and the thrill of setting sail on Viking Aton later. First, we fly into Cairo, and view the incredible new Egyptian Museum, where we see preserved mummies up close and personal.

Then, we set sail for Luxor, disembarking to visit the temples of Karnak and Luxor, connected by the imposing Avenue of the Sphinxes. It took 1,300 years to build the temple of Karnak, with work starting in the 16th century BC. Ancient walls and columns loom over you; it’s like walking onto a giant film set.

Suzanne recalls when she started guiding years ago, local children used to place planks of wood over the backs of the ancient sphinxes to play see-saw.

If history enthrals you, then the impact of walking into the legendary Valley of the Kings the next day will leave you breathless. It’s the burial ground for Pharaohs who ruled Egypt and, as it turns out, we’re the last few people ever to view the body of King Tutankhamun in his tomb.

Scientists have discovered a fungus, which means the Pharaoh’s body will be removed just days after we stand in stunned silence, staring at his wizened face and bare feet. He was 19 years old when he died, and it was so sudden that the planned tomb of his financial adviser had to be hastily adapted for the tragic young ruler.

The heat beats across the desert – you can see waves of hot air rippling across the sand – but as you descend into the tombs of Ramesses III, Queen Seti II and Thutmose, a cool stillness takes hold.

Suddenly, you’ve walked back in time and inches from your nose are beautiful depictions by artists who, back then, drew their work carefully in pencil, before adding vibrant blues, yellows and gold (unfinished areas of Queen Seti’s tomb show us exactly how they did it).

Gasps of admiration and whispers are the only sound.

Golf buggies take us back through giant sandy mounds to where our air-conditioned bus – bliss – is waiting. Then, as an added treat, we head to the desert house where famous archaeologist Howard Carter lived as he continued to dig for Tutankhamun’s tomb.

Suzanne tells us how a small child discovered the tomb by chance in 1922, when they were banging a stick into the ground.

Carter’s modest home is unchanged from his era, and we’re stepping back into a different time zone now. For history enthusiasts, it’s a veritable treasure trove. Next, we visit the giant temple of Queen Hatshepsut, so large and imposing that it’s the most surreal backdrop I’ve ever seen.

Shore excursions from the ship include the chance to barter with enthusiastic vendors in local markets. It turns out we’re hopeless, but Suzanne steps in and there are bargains aplenty, from dresses and scarves to beautiful handmade washbags that would bring joy to Oliver Bonas. There’s also the chance to sail in a traditional felucca (a flat-bottomed sail boat) along the Nile.

This brings me back to Viking Aton. We stay in a stateroom, the entry price option. Sliding glass doors open onto a private side balcony, overlooking the river, with comfy armchairs to savour the incredible view.

Inside, there’s a stylish Nordic theme, with a mid-century leather armchair, wood-effect wardrobes and a decent-sized bathroom.

With fresh fruit by day and chocolates waiting for us each evening, it’s the most luxurious entry-level I’ve ever experienced. Sinking into our beautiful Egyptian linen (of course) sheets each night is a joy. Outside, we make friends at the coffee stations, the communal areas and at the plunge pool.

It’s our first time on any cruise boat and there’s a lot to learn — not least from the optional lectures on Egyptology and workshops on Arabic and hieroglyphics, the ancient Egyptian form of writing with pictures also representing words and a mind-boggling array of 700 unique images to master.

It’s fun. My own name (Amanda) involves a vulture, an owl, a water and a hand. Who knew?

When someone answers a question, Suzanne hands them a small scarab sweet to enjoy. Nothing is onerous or stressful. Each day, however, brings new awesome sights as we travel from Luxor to beautiful Aswan.

We sit on our balcony marvelling at the magic of the Nile – which is beautiful at all times of the day – and waving to children who are splashing in the water.

Cruise passengers can join an early morning hot-air balloon ride over the Valley of the Kings – which they all say is breathtaking – but we sit it out and watch the colourful blobs rise with the golden sun. It’s a mesmerising sight.

There are optional extras, and here’s the coolest one. The guest services team (always happy and laughing) arrange for a group of us who are Death On The Nile fans to take a taxi to the Old Cataract hotel in Aswan.

It’s where Agatha Christie, the Queen of Crime, penned her iconic murder mystery. For $20, you can enter the historic hotel, and (if you’re lucky and you ask nicely) go on an afternoon tour of Agatha’s Suite to see where she wrote the novel – and enjoy the incredible view from the balcony that inspired her. Princess Diana also stayed in the same jaw-dropping suite, and we visit an even bigger one where Winston Churchill was a guest.

Watching the twinkling water and the graceful sailboats, with the ancient desert backdrop behind, it’s hard to think of murder plots.

But to whet our imaginations, we sit on the terrace and drink Agatha Christie cocktails, the most delicious (blood red, of course) combination of gin, peach juice and hibiscus. It’s an optional extra, but reader — it’s a bucket-list moment.

So, what did we learn on our first cruise?

First surprise. Is the cruise middle-aged plus? No.

There’s a group of teenage girls having a whale of a time, a lad celebrating his 18th alongside a grandmother who turns 87 on the trip, and plenty of energetic passengers in between who all take part in local dancing and nightly on-board entertainment.

Next surprise is how easy it is to chat and make friends.

Our new pal – a Top Gun pilot from America – is delighted to find another fighter pilot over breakfast. Is real-life action as good as the Tom Cruise movie, I ask? ‘Real life is faster and more exciting,’ says our pilot.

We speak to young and old, and whatever the nationality, we’re all drawn to the mystery and thrill of Egypt.

So if you ponder over the past and want a trip to remember in the future,sign up. It’s romantic, it’s unforgettable and with fantastic food and drink thrown in, it really does end up as good value.

It would be a crime to miss it.