Spain has something of a tourism problem at the moment, with visitor numbers skyrocketing despite widespread protests against overcrowding and the introduction of numerous new travel rules and fees.
Throughout 2025, residents took to the streets of hotspots including Barcelona and Palma de Mallorca, holding placards emblazoned with messages like ‘your Airbnb used to be my home’.
Although demonstrators highlighted that holidaymakers themselves weren’t their ‘enemies’ — rather the industry as a whole — some Brits seem to have taken the anti-tourist sentiment to heart.
According to Jet2 CEO Steve Heapy, many UK travellers are ditching Spain in favour of alternatives like Egypt and Morocco.
However, international arrival figures and spending proved higher than ever, with a record-breaking 96.8 million visitors adding over €134 billion (£116 billion) to the country’s economy in 2025 — 6.8% more than the previous year.
As a result, discerning travellers are increasingly looking to lesser-known destinations. And the village of Ezcaray is the perfect choice for a quiet, authentically-Spanish getaway.
Recently added to UN Tourism’s list of best rural destinations in the world, the La Rioja hamlet was praised for embracing tourism sustainably, with Secretary-General Zurab Pololikashvili praising its commitment to ‘shared prosperity, inclusive growth and territorial cohesion’.
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Set in the lush Oja Valley at the foothills of the Sierra de la Demanda mountains, Ezcaray is an ideal base for exploring northern Spain’s picturesque peaks.
And while it may be ‘off the beaten track’, it’s also just a 90-minute drive from Bilbao airport, which offers direct UK flights for as little as £25 return.
Ezcaray need-to-knows
How to get there
Flights from the UK to Bilbao are available from £25 return via British Airways, Iberia, Vueling Airlines, easyJet and Wizz Air, with a journey time of roughly two hours.
From there, your best bet is to hire a car for the 90-minute trip onward to Ezcaray, as although you can get there via two buses (changing in Haro) it will take around double the time.
Where to stay
- Hotel Echaurren Relais & Châteaux, from £156.93 a night
- Palacio Azcárate Hotel, from £82.82 a night
- Apartamentos Turísticos Rincones del Vino, from £71.92 a night
- Apartamentos la Demanda, from £57.54 a night
When to visit
The cheapest month to fly to Bilbao is usually February, but when you visit Ezcaray depends on what you’re looking for from the trip.
If you want lush landscapes, 15-25°C temperatures and fewer crowds, plan your break for May to early June, or for food and wine, go in September or October, shortly after the Rioja grape harvest.
Winter is obviously best for skiing, while high summer offers 30°C climes, outdoor dining, local festivals and café culture galore, with August being the most popular month for Spanish holidaymakers.
Things to do in Ezcaray
Nature lovers are spoilt for choice here, with Ezcaray situated right at the base of San Lorenzo mountain, the highest peak in La Rioja at 7,451ft.
Here, you can hike through forested valleys, follow scenic cycling routes such as the Vía Verde del Oja, or head out on a climb and enjoy spectacular views, wildlife spotting and fresh alpine air.
In winter, the nearby Valdezcaray ski resort attracts visitors with its family-friendly slopes, while the warmer months are perfect for walking, trout fishing and exploring hidden waterfalls and neighbouring villages scattered throughout the valley.
If you prefer a more relaxing break, while away your days among Ezcaray’s quaint cobbled streets, arcaded squares, traditional buildings such as the Santa María la Mayor, and artisan shops.
Soak up the slow-paces rhythm of local life in its cafés and plazas, which regularly play host to festivals, markets and live music events, offering a glimpse into the village’s enduring traditions and strong community spirit.
Local food and drink to try
Food is at the heart of Ezcaray’s appeal, and the village is widely regarded as one of La Rioja’s standout culinary destinations.
The region is world-famous for its Rioja wines, with a range of tastings and pairing menus on offer in local restaurants and vineyards.
In terms of food itself, the area’s gastronomy reflects its rural setting. Think hearty mountain dishes such as slow-cooked meats, stews, mushrooms and seasonal vegetables.
Patatas a la Riojana — potatoes cooked with chorizo, caramelised onions, garlic and peppers — is a must-try delicacy here, along with Torrijas a la Riojana — Spanish-style French toast with a cinnamon-coated crust and a custardy, soft interior.
At the various bars and casual dining spots dotted around the village, you can also sample pintxos (small snacks served with drinks, typically on toothpicks) and dishes like lamb chops grilled over grapevine shoots, piquillo peppers stuffed with cod or minced meat, and white beans with clams or chorizo.
But if you’re looking for something special, there are four Michelin-recognised restaurants in Ezcaray.
With two stars, El Portal de Echaurren is the place to be for conceptual cooking, putting a unique twist on staples such as croquetas and showcasing traditional ingredients such as game and offal.
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