As I slide into the steaming hot tub at Chalet Skiopied, 1,800m up in the mountains, the peaks turn pink and for a moment I feel like I’m basking in
a five-star spa.
Yet this isn’t one of the big names, like Three Valleys or Val Thorens. Instead, I’ve landed in Les Sybelles, the fourth largest ski area in France (and seventh in Europe), spanning six interconnected resorts and 192 miles of pistes.
And somehow, I’m paying far less for the privilege than I would at the other more famous French resorts.
Charges for day lift passes, for example, are €58 (£51), while in Three Valleys, they are €70 (£61).
I am based in La Toussuire, a charming village largely made up
of chalets ideal for families, many of which are almost directly on the piste.
A standout of my accommodation is the ski-in/out, which means you can glide straight to breakfast. One day, I’ll pluck up the courage and gain the skill to do this. It’s now one of my life goals.
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Because I’m inexperienced, I book beginner lessons with the ESF ski school and make my way down the green slopes – even making it onto a blue slope for the first time.
It’s perfect for beginners or inexperienced skiers, while for more advanced skiers, Les Sybelles has a particularly high number of red runs (35 compared with 28 in Val Thorens).
The most challenging slopes in the resort can be found in the St-Sorlin-d’Arves area. Almost half of the ski area is backed up by artificial snow from 634 cannons, so you can expect conditions to stay reliable.
But it’s not just about the powder. The next day finds me strapping on snowshoes for a forest hike, crunching through untouched powder.
Meanwhile, for thrillseekers, there’s dog-sledging in nearby St-Jean-d’Arves, snake gliss (group sledging) and even a 150m zipline over Lac de Titou.
And if you’ve got serious stamina, why not consider Europe’s longest snow-bike descent or even paraglide over the slopes for a bird’s-eye view.
One of my favourite moments is devouring a hot dog from a piste-side food truck converted from an old snow-groomer, eating with a 360-degree view of the Alps.
On a different level, I dine at Chez Marcel & Fonsine, where I try (with some hesitation) garlicky snails for the first time and cheese in the restaurant’s cosy wine cellar, before tucking into a creamy gratin and a steak we watched grill over a wood fire.
Also deserving a mention is Chalet Le Foehn, a lively bar-restaurant in La Toussuire that serves Alpine classics such as fondue.
Think of a chocolate fountain except with warm, melted cheese constantly flowing, sounds like heaven, right? Beaufort cheese is a well-known local speciality.
As I enjoy a warm herbal tea on my final night, looking out over the vast, snowy landscape from my balcony, I know I’ve discovered a hidden gem.
Perhaps it’s the pull of bigger names, or the fear that affordability means compromise.
But Les Sybelles proves otherwise – vast slopes, spectacular scenery and a package price hundreds cheaper than the flashier resorts.
How to get to Les Sybelles
The closest airport is Chambéry, which is a 90-minute drive, but from the UK it’s easiest to fly direct into Geneva or Lyon, both around two hours’ drive away.
Several airlines fly direct from the UK to Geneva, including easyJet and Swiss Air, and easyJet also flies direct to Lyon. Prices start from as little as £25 one-way in December.
If you’re travelling by train from elsewhere in France, the closest station is Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne.
