As soon as the heat hits and I step foot onto the tarmac at Eivessa Airport in Ibiza, there’s no escaping the buzz and energy that takes hold.
Simply put, I love this place. So much so, it’s become a habitual annual holiday destination where days planned months in advance finally come to fruition: boat trips, clubs, good food, sunset views, shopping, sunbathing, more clubs—everything is planned to eke out every last second on this magical island.
But while it is always great fun, relaxing it is not. Days later, when I plod back into UK passport control, I feel in desperate need of another holiday.
Like 55% of the 3 million tourists who visit to the White Isle each year, I always come in peak summer season to make the most of Ibiza’s inimitable sun and fun.
I’ve never once considered what the home of hedonism might be like for the 160,000 residents who live here all year round, or whether it could still deliver a holiday to remember… but why not?
Best of Metro Deals
Get exclusive discounts with Metro Deals – save on getaways and spa days. Powered by Wowcher
Bannatyne Spa: Spa day for two with treatments, lunch & prosecco — save up to 57% off.
Mystery Escape: Hotel stay with return flights from as low as £92pp — save on worldwide holiday packages.
Beach Retreat (Lanzarote): 4* Lanzarote beach holiday with flights — save up to 58%.
I fly out in mid-March, and making my way through the airport, the vibe is certainly different. The terminal doesn’t heave with excitable tourists and for once there isn’t a queue full of people clamouring for taxis to whisk them away and get down to partying.
The week that I visit, Blighty would of course be enjoying unseasonable sunshine. But although the temperature is actually cooler in Ibiza than it is in the UK, it doesn’t feel it. Sunshine here just hits different.
For once I can hear the buzz of the birds instead of the tourist chatter, and instead of lying down to recover, I am relaxing.
A quick trip into San Antonio – which I usually avoid unless it’s to jump on a boat – turned into a pleasant stroll along the harbour, where we got to see the town quiet and unfiltered.
Most of the tourist spots were shut, but there were still some nice authentic cafes open for the locals. We had a decent tapas selection and a glass of wine for 3 euros, so win-win.
My home for the next two nights is the Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel in the Santa Eulalia countryside, the heart of the Ibiza. It started life as a farm in the 13th century and clings on to plenty of its history. (Doubles from €260 per night in low season.)
In the 300-year-old finca, which is still owned by the same family, a simple fireplace where the family would huddle – and even sleep on top of to keep warm – is still pride of place in reception.
Many of the 24 rooms and suites of this ‘prestigious rural hotel’ once started out as stables and farm buildings, but today they’ve been transformed with big wooden four posters, luxurious white furnishings and trendy red-tiled floors.
It’s very much a place where old meets new. Visitors can choose from longevity treatments, morning yoga and relaxing massages or simply make the most of the luxuriant day beds, sprawled across the grass.
A far cry from the wipe-down kind you find in other parts of Ibiza…
As I walk through the grounds – which is home to 3,000 orange trees and a vegetable garden used by both the restaurant and spa – there’s a sense of serenity that captures the heart of Ibiza, and mine all over again.
I’ve always known the island is magical, earthy and spiritual, but until this moment I had never given myself more than five minutes to really soak it up.
This couldn’t be further from my usual Ibiza getaway.
‘The clubbing side is just a tiny part of the island,’ the hotel’s designer and marketing manager, Leane Lacase tells me. ‘This is what Ibiza is all about, being at one with nature. It’s very healing.’
She’s not wrong.
Driving through the countryside to another jewel in the Atzuro crown – the restaurant Aubergine (which does the most divine baked camembert with home-made marmalade) – was just another reminder of how beautiful the landscape is. And how much of it there is to explore.
Clever people don’t just come here to party, they hike and cycle, making the most of the coastal cliff paths and pine-clad hills.
And, of course, there’s a good slice of history to devour, too. Admittedly, in the high-season Ibiza Town is a bit of a tourist trap – although less so than San Antonio – but it’s also home to the fortified old town of Dalt Vila.
A UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s winding cobbled streets lead steeply to a 13-14th century gothic cathedral — and the most breathtaking views of Ibiza, which are infinitely more enjoyable without endless crowds of tourists stopping for selfies.
So how did it feel to go to Ibiza off-season? Invigorating. I got to see the island in all its natural glory, and she is an absolute stunner.
Back at the airport the biggest low-season giveaway was the sight of the iconic Burger King at the far end of the gates with its shutters down. Come summer it will be overflowing with broken holiday-goers.
Visiting in low season, when there is a chance to soak up the island in a more considered way, has given me newfound love for what it has to offer.
Yes, I will be back when party season kicks in, but maybe I just need to make it a twice-yearly trip instead to appreciate the highs and lows.
How a 300-year-old finca levels up longevity
While Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel is proud of its humble beginnings, it’s not afraid to embrace the future. The property relaunched its spa this year to reflect the evolving needs of their clientele. In 2026, wellness is not just big business, it is the business.
While there wasn’t time for me to make the most of a longevity PT or indulge in a nutrient therapy IV drip, I did get to use the body scanner in the gym and try out the longevity circuit.
Comprising of infrared therapy and hypoxic training (a machine that is usually used for altitude training to improve oxygen), it also includes a sauna, cold plunge, and an even colder cryotherapy chamber – which, after three minutes, was a great way to blow the cobwebs away.
Claie Wilson was a guest of Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel, but don’t expect us to sugarcoat anything – our reviews are 100% independent.
British Airways flies from London Gatwick to Ibiza from £41 each-way including hand baggage allowance.
