I spent 2 months travelling India solo — these are the mistakes I made

Having spent more than six months travelling the length and breadth of India, on three separate trips, it remains one of my favourite countries in the world.

I’ve explored this endlessly compelling place alone, with an ex-boyfriend, and as part of a group, and each experience felt entirely distinct from the last.

My very first visit, the final stop on a year-long round-the-world journey, left me enthralled, stunned, and completely mesmerised. I struggled to comprehend the labour and devotion behind the intricately hand-carved Ellora Caves in Maharashtra.

I was spellbound by the serenity of Amritsar’s Golden Temple, and fell hard for the Himalayas while wandering the cooler climes of Dharamshala.

The colours, the festivals, the religious devotion, the food — each day of that two-and-a-half-month journey was an adventure, and I never wanted the excitement to end.

The next jaunt was a quick in-and-out stay to review a detox centre in Goa. It was very mellow and completely not the India I had experienced before, and so I left feeling like I needed to return, fast.

And return I did. This time, alone.

Is India a good destination for solo travellers?

Travelling in India solo, as a woman, is a completely different experience from being with a companion, and many of my Indian-born friends agree.

I decided on a two-month trip with a focus on Delhi, Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and Hyderabad, and it wasn’t until I stepped off the plane at Delhi’s Indira Gandhi airport that I realised just what an epic decision I’d made.

I’d somehow forgotten the chaos, the hassle, the noise and the pollution, yet arriving solo, it hit me hard. My guard went up, and I was going to have to approach this trip very differently.

This isn’t to say that India should be dismissed as a destination for solo female travellers. Rather, it’s a country best approached with awareness and preparation.

Here are some of the mistakes I made, so you don’t have to.

The travel mistakes I made in India and how to avoid them

Not securing accommodation ahead of arrival

When backpacking with my ex, we rarely booked accommodation ahead of time. We preferred to turn up, inspect a place for cleanliness, and ask for a room on the spot.

Travelling solo as a woman, however, this approach is far riskier, particularly in India, where festivals and public holidays can fill entire towns overnight.

I learned this the hard way on more than one occasion, most memorably during Gandhi Jayanti on October 2, an annual festival which celebrates Mahatma Gandhi’s birthday.

I arrived in Hampi to find every room booked out for the long weekend. Fortunately, I’d met three fellow travellers on the train into town, and together we managed to secure a couple of straw huts, complete with
rats, in a family’s garden. It was far from ideal, but it taught me a valuable lesson: book ahead.

Wearing a dress

Respecting local dress norms is always important, and even more so when travelling solo as a woman.

Throughout my trip, I made a conscious effort to dress modestly: loose trousers, long-sleeved tops, and occasionally a headscarf.

Still, I slipped up once.

In Pondicherry, caught up in the town’s distinctly European feel, with its cafés, bakeries, and leafy streets, I wore a cap-sleeved, knee-length dress on a particularly hot day.

The response was immediate and unsettling. People attempted to take photos up my skirt (something that has, unfortunately, also happened to me in London), and I was groped in the street.

Experiencing this alone was deeply intimidating.

Lesson learned: my dresses stayed buried at the bottom of my backpack for the rest of the trip.

Not breaking up my travels with a few tourist hot spots

Eager to explore lesser-visited destinations, I spent much of my trip far from the tourist trail.

After a month, the isolation began to weigh on me. I rarely encountered
other travellers, and while I tried to immerse myself in local life, differences in language, background, and lifestyle sometimes made meaningful connection difficult.

I remedied this by weaving in a few more well-trodden stops, such as Fort Kochi and Puducherry, and by choosing homestays over low-key hotels.

One of my most memorable experiences was staying with a young couple in Hyderabad who enthusiastically drove me around, introducing me to their favourite street food spots, attractions, and corners of the city they called home.

Eating meat

I love food, and some of the best meals of my life have been in India. Unfortunately, every visit has also ended with food poisoning.

On my first trip, I made it two months before falling seriously ill, eventually being hospitalised and put on an intravenous drip. It was unpleasant, but I had a companion and recovered within a couple of weeks.

Being sick while travelling alone is an entirely different ordeal. I’ll spare the details, but it involved projectile vomiting, another hospital visit, numerous injections, and long, lonely days confined to bed.

In my case, undercooked chicken, often from restaurants that appeared clean, was always the culprit.

Now, I largely avoid meat, opting instead for vegetarian dishes, with the occasional exception of fish in coastal regions.

India’s street food, on the other hand, has never caused me issues. Busy stalls are always a good sign, and they serve up some of the most delicious snacks and dishes imaginable.

Not being firm enough with taxi and rickshaw drivers

When it comes to taxis and rickshaws, confidence is key.

Always insist on the meter or use app-based rides. Some drivers will avoid setting a price upfront, only to demand an inflated fare at the end of the journey; a practice that isn’t unique to India, but is best avoided altogether.

It’s also not uncommon for drivers to stop mid-journey to pick up a friend.

While this may feel harmless when travelling with someone else, it can be deeply uncomfortable when you’re alone.

Learn to say no. If a situation feels wrong, get out nd find another ride.

Arriving without a money reserve

India is undeniably affordable, which makes it a magnet for budget travellers. Still, having a financial safety net is essential when travelling solo.

More than once, I arrived at pre-booked accommodation that wasn’t as advertised: broken locks, unclean rooms, and on one occasion, a group of men watching porn in the lobby.

Unsurprisingly, I didn’t feel comfortable staying the night.

This meant scrambling for alternative accommodation at the last minute, often at a higher cost than planned.

While it wasn’t part of my original budget, having savings to fall back on allowed me to prioritise safety over cost.

Allowing everyone to take a photo

Anyone who’s visited India knows that being asked for photos is common.
Sometimes it’s simple curiosity, sometimes a desire for a souvenir image, and often it’s entirely harmless.

That said, when you’re alone and approached by a group of men, the dynamic can occasionally feel uncomfortable.

Trust your instincts. If a situation feels off, remove yourself quickly.

I’ve ducked into shops or positioned myself near other women
whenever I’ve felt uneasy.

Not arriving at the next destination before nightfall

Transport delays are sometimes unavoidable, and I didn’t always manage to reach my destination before dark.

One particularly chaotic night saw me arriving late in Bangalore and navigating the city in the back of a tuk-tuk.

When the driver veered off main roads onto unlit, deserted paths, my anxiety skyrocketed.

It later emerged that he simply needed a bathroom break, but at the
time, I was on edge.

After that experience, I made a conscious effort to travel earlier in the day wherever possible, minimising the stress of arriving somewhere new after nightfall.

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