‘This might be the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth,’ my friend says, mopping up the crumbs on her plate.
We’re sitting outside Nanana Coffeeshop in Meudon, a suburb of Paris, eating a brioche à la vergeoise brune, best described as a slice of pure heaven.
Just five miles from the centre of the City of Love, if this were London, we’d still be in the heart of the capital.
To Parisians, though, Meudon might as well be in Belgium.
‘People think I’ve left Paris,’ my pal, who moved here just over a year ago, tells me. ‘But you can get into the city in 20 minutes.’
Meudon sits on a hill on the south of the Seine, in the shadow of a 32m high railway viaduct, and bordered by a forest.
Narrow cobbled streets weave along steep slopes. There are elegant buildings with wrought-iron balconies and flower-filled gardens. To this Brit, it is to Paris as Richmond-upon-Thames is to London.
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Meudon has attracted artistic types for centuries — the likes of Renoir and Sisley painted landscapes of the suburb. It’s also home to an observatory, part of the Observatoire De Paris, which is still in use today.
If you’ve never been to Paris before, it’s unlikely you’ll take time away from the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame to head to Meudon — and in fairness, that would be an odd choice.
However, if you’ve made the cross-Channel trip several times, and you’re looking for a peaceful afternoon away from the crowds — or somewhere different to stay — this leafy neighbourhood should be on your radar.
Bon appetit
For a strong French coffee in aesthetic surroundings, the aforementioned Nanana Coffeeshop is the place to go.
I’m told their patisserie chef, Anne-Charlotte, makes fresh pastries every day. And yes, the brioche really was that good.
Of course, Meudon is home to several boulangeries. While I don’t think I’ve ever met a croissant in France I didn’t like, I had more than my fair share from Boulangerie de la Place, and would highly recommend.
But by far the best food I ate during my trip was an al fresco dinner at Issy Guinguette, a small restaurant with a cute garden and its own vineyard.
Disclaimer: you’ll need to hop on the Metro and travel one stop to the neighbouring town of Issy-les-Moulineaux for this, but it takes less than five minutes.
The atmosphere here is friendly, with couples and families alike enjoying meals in the garden.
As a waiter poured me another glass of wine, he explained how the local schoolchildren visit the restaurant every year at harvest to stamp on the grapes.
I couldn’t help but chuckle at what was surely the most French thing I’d ever heard, and a world away from my school trips to Alton Towers and the Millennium Dome.
The food at Issy Guinguette is traditional French fare, but without a pretentious edge. I had melt-in-your-mouth steak frites — a solid 10/10 from me.
Things to do in Meudon
Once you’re done mooching around with a coffee, head out to Meudon Forest for a proper stroll.
This sprawling area, which stretches across the southwest suburbs of Paris, covering nearly 1,100 hectares, is home to ponds, wildlife, and scenic hiking routes.
The town’s official website suggests various trails, from a five-hour circuit to shorter options for those with reduced mobility.
Back in Meudon, be sure to stop by Hangar Y. For 40 years, this airship hanger (the world’s first, used during WWI) sat empty and abandoned — that is, until a transformation project was launched in 2018, turning it into a unique arts and cultural space.
Now, it’s home to large-scale art installations, exhibitions and open-air concerts. Currently, Hangar Y is playing host to an immersive Matisse exhibition, described as ‘a sensory experience… guided by dance, gesture and color.’
The glass and iron structure itself is also a sight to behold, built with the same materials used for the 1889 Paris Universal Exhibition.
There’s also a park, play area for kids, and a picturesque restaurant open Wednesday to Saturday.
For something more cultural, probably the most popular tourist attraction in Meudon is the Rodin Museum, where the famous French sculptor lived and worked — and where he’s buried.
You can visit his villa, as well as stroll around the gardens, taking in some of his most famous works, including The Kiss and The Thinker.
Be warned, though, it’s currently closed for winter until March.
Finally, on a sunny day, head up to the Parc de l’Observatoire. It’s a bit of a climb, but enjoy the laid-back vibes and wander around the terrace of the observatory building (you can’t actually go inside).
Even better, gaze out at the panoramic views of Paris. On a clear day, you might even glimpse the Eiffel Tower.
Getting to Paris: Contenders to rival Eurostar
Soon, you could be travelling to Paris by rail — on something that’s not the Eurostar.
Several potential competitors have announced their intention to operate international services between London and Europe via the Channel Tunnel in the next five years.
However, just four have applied to the Office of Rail and Road for access to Temple Mills depot, the only one that can accommodate channel tunnel trains:
- Richard Branson’s Virgin Group
- Gemini / Uber Trains
- Trenitalia France
- Evolyn
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